Miyajima, Japan

In 1643, Shunsai Hayashi, a Confucian scholar, did a walking tour of Japan and selected what he considered the three most beautiful places in Japan. Miyajima was one of the three, and is still considered so to this day. It was the place I decided to visit instead of Hiroshima.

The small island of Miyajima is a short ferry ride from Hiroshima. I took a ship’s tour to the island but discovered that I could have reached Miyajima easily by taking a short train ride from the city to the Miyajimaguchi Ferry Terminal and then boarded the ferry. On the tour we had the advantage of a knowledgeable tour guide but also a limited time on the island. If I had gone there independently, I could easily have spent hours wandering around the island with its numerous temples, shrines, and other attractions. It was a fabulous place, and if I had to pick one place we visited on this voyage to visit again, it would be Miyajima.

As the ferry neared the island, we had a view of the iconic O-Torii gate, which stands at the waters edge. Pictures of the O-Torii gate often appear in magazine articles and travel advertisements about Japan. It is one of those images that frequently represent Japan. The vermillion color of the shrine is supposed to ward off evil spirits. Since the gate looks more orange instead of vermillion, it could use another coat of the vermillion lacquer.

O-Torii Gate

Made of Japanese camphor wood, cypress, and cedar, the O-Torii Gate gives the impression that it floats on the water. It is not anchored in the sand but instead rests on the sand, weighted down by tons of rocks in the top arch. We were fortunate to see it during high tide when the water covers the ground around the gate. During low tide visitors can walk out to the gate and actually touch it.

The whole island of Miyajima was considered to be sacred, and as a result, the O-Torii Gate and the Itsukushima Shrine were built on the water so as not to desecrate the land. The Itsukushima Shrine is dedicated to three Munakata goddesses who are worshiped as deities of sea, traffic safety, fortune, and accomplishments. Traveling on a ship and using all forms of public transportation, traffic safety is high on my list. We were told that the form of prayer in the shrine included bowing twice, clapping loudly twice (to scare away evil spirits), saying your prayer, and then bowing again at the end.

Itsukushima Shrine with Pagoda

Prayer Requests

While going through the Itsukushima Shrine, we had the pleasure of seeing a traditional wedding in progress. The wedding party wore heavy embroidered garments. Additionally, the bride wore a large white headdress, shaped like a giant almond or peach, to keep evil spirits from getting to her during the ceremony. It looked more like blinders, which probably kept the bride from seeing the bridegroom in an arranged marriage until after the ceremony so she wouldn’t try to get away once she saw him.

Traditional Japanese Wedding at Shrine

Japanese Bridal Attire

Three things remain important on the island: deer, horse, and birds. Deer were considered messengers of the gods. Not much bigger than a large dog, they wandered around the island and hovered near the crowds. A voice from a loudspeaker kept warning visitors that the deer were wild and would grab anything from your hands, including paper and cloth, searching for food.

The horse is a figure of the gods. Although there were no horses wandering around the island, statues of horses abounded.

Doves, crows, and cranes are considered sacred on the island and the islanders provide shelters for them. Each year a Crow Festival is held and there is ceremonial feeding of the crows.

The Five-Storied Pagoda, which combines the Japanese and Chinese styles of architecture, sat high on the hill and made a beautiful backdrop for the shrine. It’s what they call in China “a borrowed view”—something that sits apart or close by and becomes a part of the view. I was sorry that we didn’t have more time on the island in order to climb the hill to tour it.

Vermillion Bridge

Flat wooden rice scoops, both plain and decorated, were sold in shops all over the island. They serve as a talisman or lucky charm meant to help the owner scoop good fortune and love. A large, inscribed rice scoop was presented to the ship’s captain as a welcoming gift. Unfortunately, it was all in Japanese, so if it is displayed with the other mementoes of ship visits, viewers won’t be able to read it.

Rice Scoop Presented to the Ship

When I arrived back at the pier, students at the local university asked if I would complete a questionnaire. After I completed it, they gave me a choice of thank you gifts—including a rice scoop. You can guess which one I chose.  

 

A restaurant at the ferry terminal displayed a sign that read “Restaurant and Hospitality,” which I assumed identifies restaurants where patrons can be seated and served, unlike takeaway restaurants.

Traveling back to the ship, we again saw people wearing facemasks to protect themselves from polluted air, which seemed rather strange when you saw some of them pull down their mask to have a cigarette. Thinking again about air pollution, we were told that breathing the air in Shanghai was equal to smoking two packs of cigarettes a day.

At the ship, I rejoined John who had toured Hiroshima. He told me about his tour, and although he found it interesting, I decided I had the better day. I would highly recommend a trip to Miyajima to anyone who visits Japan.

Farewell to Miyajima