Friday, April 29, 2016

Salalah, Oman


Salalah is the capital of the southern Omani province of Dhofar. It is also the second largest city in Oman. It sits on the eastern part of the Arabian Peninsula and is bordered by Yemen (formerly Aden), Saudi Arabia, and the United Arab Emirates. While in the Royal Marines, John had served in Aden and was disappointed that we couldn’t see land as we sailed by.

Salalah sits on a narrow strip of coast on the Arabian Sea. Thanks to monsoon rains, this area of Oman is much greener and filled with coconut and banana groves. It is also famed for being a major source of frankincense.

About 20 miles outside of Salalah on a hill overlooking the Arabian Sea can be found the tomb of Job, from the Old Testament, and of religious significance to Christians, Jews, and Muslims.

The day before we arrived, I experienced symptoms of dehydration, and since I wanted to be in good shape for our visit to Petra, I decided to stay on the ship and recover. Dehydration can sneak up on you quite quickly and leave you feeling like a wilted plant. As I discovered, you need much greater levels of fluid intake than you are normally accustomed to. Taking a few sips of water while out on an extremely hot day touring in this area of the world isn’t enough.

John went into Salalah by taxi, took a quick tour, and came back with photos of some interesting places. He said the main form of employment appeared to be driving taxis. I was disappointed that I didn’t get to see the sights myself, so I don’t have any commentary to include with the photos.

Royal Palace








Mosque




Groves of Trees





Market Place Vendor





Beachfront Near Souk








Sailing away from Salalah, we looked out to see dolphins swimming along the side of the ship. Some of them were quite large and able to jump high out of the water. They were either coming to the surface to say hello or complaining that the ship just sailed through their territory.

Today was the Queen Elizabeth’s 90th birthday, and celebrations were held throughout the ship to celebrate the occasion, which included a large cake and champagne toasts on the deck. The captain said that birthday greetings had been sent to the Queen on behalf of the passengers and crew, including a picture of the crew assembled at the ship’s bow.

Birthday Cake




Shipboard Birthday Celebrations





For the past several days, the Queen Mary 2 has been one day behind us, visiting the ports we just left in Chennai and Cochin. Unfortunately, an outbreak of gastro-intestinal illness occurred on the ship, and she was refused permission to enter Salalah. Apparently, it depends on the numbers of passengers who are ill that determines whether the ship will be granted permission to dock. We heard that the outbreak on the QM2 was significant.

In the distance, we could see a naval vessel. It was too far away to determine which country it belonged to. However, whatever country the ship belonged to, we were glad it was close by.




The People You Meet


As we get closer to the end of our journey, we’ve begun reflecting on our experiences. One of the pleasures of taking a long voyage is meeting people and making friends. Since leaving Southampton, we’ve had the pleasure of getting to know people from over the world. The majority of passengers on the first segment to Cape Town were from the U.K., with smaller numbers from Germany and the U.S. The list of passengers from other countries was like reading a map of the world.

Also, depending on where we were on our journey, the mix of passengers changed, with people from other countries getting on at various ports. For example, when we arrived in Australia, several hundred Australians came onboard. In Hong Kong, large numbers of Chinese and Japanese boarded. It was the same in every major port with people of different nationalities arriving. We always had an interesting mix of people.

Throughout the voyage, we’ve had a Swiss couple in the cabin next to us. Since I don’t speak French or German, and they don’t speak English, we exchanged a Bon jour, Madame and a smile each morning. Often, that’s all you need.

Sometimes we had a brief chat with people sharing a table at breakfast, never to see them again, and at other times we saw people often enough that we became friends. With passengers coming and going, it was always nice to run into passengers who continued to sail with us week after week.

We’ve so enjoyed hearing about people’s lives and their travels. Recently, we met a couple who spent 12 years as missionaries in the Congo. The woman had been the daughter of missionaries in India, and as a very young child, had lived in a boarding school for the children of missionaries in the south of India, three hours from her parents.

The stories of peoples’ careers and travels were equally as interesting. For example, we learned a lot hearing about the adventures of the couple that moved from England to Canada and established a vineyard. Also, we enjoyed talking to a woman who had been an officer on another cruise line and hearing about her visit to Fiji long ago when there were still only straw huts and one newly opened hotel—so new that the waiter had no idea how to open a bottle of wine.

Another woman we met was traveling back to Germany after living in Hong Kong for 12 years. She was uncertain how she would react to life there after so many years in a country so totally different from her own.

We also admired the courage of many of the passengers who had very limited mobility but were determined to see the world, especially the woman who was severely bent over and walked with two canes. She went out at every port, even on the hottest days, and always refused help. Sometimes we didn’t know how she made it back. And the paralyzed woman who only had the use of one hand to navigate her electric wheelchair, but got around the ship on her own. How could anyone complain about little things on the ship with these examples of hardship?

Some of our favorite people were the two couples we’ve shared a table with, who after dining with them for over three months, we still enjoy and find interesting (Molly and Rory from England, and John and Beverly from California). Also among our favorites was a German couple, Helmet and Brumhild, who every time we saw them brought a smile to our faces. And so many others: Robert, a retired English professor from Kansas, Rodney and Theresa from Oxford, Ann and Ed, retired teachers from Detroit, and Antonia and Curt from Florida.

There were so many people who were on the ship for short stays and we were so sorry to see them leave: Jeff and Frances from Wales, and John and Carol from Bromley in England.

We will miss so many people. And then, of course, Kenneth our cabin steward from the Philippines, and Kumar and Muba our waiters from India. All of them have helped make our journey such a pleasure.

On a ship, you also meet people from all walks of life, and when you meet them, you have no idea about their backgrounds. Two of our tablemates had joined a quiz group that met daily for weeks. One day they received a note from two of their quiz partners, who had written to say that they would be leaving the ship because of death in the family and apologized for not being able to tell them in person or say goodbye.  The letterhead on the note read Lord and Lady….  The quiz group had no idea.

Some people know exactly what they want out of a cruise and what’s important to them. One woman, on her first day on the ship, went to the hairdresser on board and booked appointments for the next twelve weeks. First things first.

Then there are those people you can set your watch by. Each day at precisely 12:15 p.m., a tiny German woman walked out on to the promenade deck and race walked for 30 minutes. It’s probably why she was so trim.

And no matter what accommodation you’ve booked, nothing will be perfect. We heard about a couple who booked one of the Queen’s Grill suites, one of the largest on the ship, that vibrated so much that they had to sleep in a nearby cabin until it could be fixed.

And as wonderful as long voyages sound, they aren’t for everyone. We heard of an elderly couple that mortgaged their home to take the world voyage in a Queen’s Grill suite (staggeringly expensive), and discovered that they didn’t enjoy cruising at all. They had never taken a cruise before. Perhaps a short weekend voyage somewhere would have been been a better and cheaper introduction to the world of sea travel. 

Periodically we’ve seen several members of the crew that we recognized from being on the QE2 and the Queen Mary. When we’ve asked them if they had been on one of the other Cunard ships, they always seemed so pleased that we remembered them.

Sea days gave us lots of time to people watch, and we saw some interesting and sometimes humorous things. Such as the woman who dressed everyday in apparel covered in animal prints, even if it was only her shoes. Or the Japanese couple who dressed alike every day, right down to their large plaid trousers. We thought that was funny until one day John pointed out that I had been sitting on a deck chair next to a man who wore a yellow shirt and coral shorts, just like me. For anyone passing, we looked like a couple that had dressed alike.

Of course, like in all walks of life, there have also been some people who weren’t pleasant or thoughtful. Below are some things that we’ve seen or other people have seen and told us about. As a result, we’ve come up with a list of those passengers who have been nominated to walk the plank, or at the very least, should be keelhauled.

In no particular order of severity:

-- Passengers who cut off people using walkers or wheelchairs.

-- People in wheelchairs who cut off other people in wheelchairs—we’ve see it all.

-- Passengers who leave items in deck lounge chairs to reserve them and then don’t return for hours.

-- The man who wrote to the captain complaining about the missing anchovies in his Caesar salad. You can’t make this stuff up.

-- Passengers who ignore the dress guidelines for a country and wear revealing clothing in a place known to be less tolerant.

-- The expert dancers who glare at or push aside less experienced dancers who get in their way on the dance floor.

-- The man in the very abbreviated Speedo swim suit who walked around the deck about 20 times, in case anyone missed him the first 19 times. 

-- The man who removed wet clothing from two dryers in the launderette so he could use them. The things that go on in the launderette would be worthy of its own post.

-- In the dining areas, passengers who get up from their chairs without looking around and nearly collide with waiters carrying heavy trays.

-- Passengers who totally ignore members of the crew who greet them or don’t say thank you for anything.

-- Quiz participants who call out answers spoiling the competitions for others.

-- On formal nights, people who ignore the ship’s dress code when there are less formal areas they could use.

-- In the theater, passengers who push past people seated in a long row to get to the middle seats (and in the middle of a performance), when there are plenty of empty seats nearby.

-- People who continually complain about everything to anyone who will listen.

-- Passengers who take something of everything on the buffet and then leave most of it.

-- Members of tour groups who return late to the bus, keeping everyone waiting.

-- The young couple in the Lido who used nearby dining chairs as foot rests for their bare feet—at dinner.

-- On the promenade deck, people who ignore the guidelines to stay right and walk in the opposite direction of everyone else—expecting on-comers to step aside for them.

-- People who allow their cabin and balcony doors to slam every time they go in or out, day and night.

-- People who play several games of the same sport on the Sports Deck when there is a line of people waiting.

-- People who smoke in non-smoking areas.

-- The people who created such a fuss at their table that the Head Waiter had to personally wait on them.

Some of these things might be minor, but when you’ve been at sea for nearly four months, if given half a chance, you'd gladly push any of these offenders overboard.

Note: The short, dumpy woman with the big hat who, if guilty of any of these infractions, apologizes.



Thursday, April 28, 2016

Muscat, Oman



Sailing to Oman, we continued through the Straits of Hormous, passed along the coastline of Iran, and entered the Gulf of Oman. It is said that people have been living in Oman for over 5,000 years.

We docked in the Sultan Qaboos Port, where we saw both a British Naval ship and a U. S. Naval ship. As the U.S. ship pulled away from the dock close to where we waited for a bus, I wanted to jump up and down and wave as it went by, but John called that the bus wouldn’t wait for me any longer. Disappointing.

A 14th century fort and watchtowers built by the Portuguese lined the hills along the seafront. For such a small country, those Portuguese really got around. The area was quite arid and covered with rocky hills close to the city and tall mountains behind it. When you looked at the hills, from one direction they looked tan, and from another direction, almost golden in color. Plants and flowers along the seafront and along the roads helped the area feel less arid.

14th Century Portuguese Fort





Muscat was quite different from Dubai—more like we expected a country in the Middle East to look. One of the biggest differences was the absence of tall buildings or skyscrapers. The government imposed a height limitation of eight stories on buildings, which has enabled them to blend more modern buildings with the old and preserving a sense of real Oman. Structures are built of cinderblocks covered with stucco, and the soft tan colors of the buildings harmonize with the surrounding terrain. It made for a beautiful community.

Leaving the port area, we went into Muscat and visited the Mutrah Souk. As soon as we entered the covered souk, which was a warren of alleyways so convoluted that we totally got lost in it, we were struck by the smell of incense and spices. Shops sold a large variety of items, including beautiful marquetry boxes; scarves from India; decorative silver daggers; belly dancer outfits; pattern sheets for henna tattoos; Hello Kitty purses; and real authentic, locally made Burberry scarves. We even saw some U. S. items marked As seen on TV.

Mutrah Souk




The clothing worn by women seemed to be less restrictive than in some of the other countries we’ve visited. Although they still wore black robes and veils, some of the robes had designs on the fronts of their robes, and they wore colorful veils. One woman had pink pants with white polka dots underneath her robe, which we could see when the wind raised the bottom of her robe, and she wore pink tennis shoes. Perhaps she was just a visitor who wore a robe. The robe and veil would give you a sense of anonymity. Men wore white robes and hats that had intricate embroidery and resembled pillbox hats worn by women in the 1960s.

Robed Men




In addition to the souks, shops and shopping centers were scattered throughout the city. Instead of supermarkets, they have hypermarkets.

We met a British couple last year who work in Oman. They said that Oman is a very forward thinking country and a good place to live. Women could drive and had greater freedoms there than other places in the Middle East. We saw both mosques and churches there, and signs in both Arabic and English. There are 2.7 million people in Oman. Two million are Omanis, and the remainder are people who came from other countries to work there. People who move to Oman can become citizens after 20 years of residency.

To see Muscat, we took the Hop-On, Hop-Off bus, which gave us a two-hour tour of the city, and we covered quite a lot of it. It was an extremely hot day, but we were comfortable on the covered upper deck, with the wind blowing around us. Recorded commentary gave us information about the city and its people.

The countryside was quite barren, although we were told that the distant mountains had a variety of plant life. This area of Oman has not been blessed with wide beaches. In fact, when the tide is in, the beaches become quite narrow. Mangrove swamps help to preserve the little beachfront they have. We could see dates hanging from palm trees. The date palm is very important to the local economy, providing food and fronds they use for shelter.

Muscat was different from western cities but the same in many ways. It was filled with motorways with heavy traffic, large billboards, KFCs, and Pizza Hut. (In Dubai, they even had a Five Guys restaurant, which was started by brothers in our area of the U.S. only a few years ago. How they’ve grown, even becoming international.) The people participate in bicycle races (the Tour of Oman), runs for many causes, and other challenges. Flip-flops seemed to be the preferred footwear.

We crossed over riverbeds that were completely dry except for small puddles of water, where birds were playing. Although the riverbeds were dry, flash floods can occur without much warning. Frankincense trees abound in Oman and provide high quality frankincense. I remember frankincense from the Bible, but didn’t realize people still use it. Apparently, it is used in perfumes such as Opium. Many women returned to the ship with it and you could smell the sickly sweet odor of it all over the ship.

We passed a number of spectacular places, including one of the palaces for the royal family of Oman; the new opera house, which was designed in the style of an old fort with crenelated tops, and the new parliament/government buildings. They were all quite beautiful and suited the surrounding area. We also passed a number of mosques, some modest, and others quite grand.

Palace



Royal Opera House



Government Buildings





The strangest structure we saw was the Incense Burner, which sat on a hill along the coast. It looked more like a spaceship from a 1950s movie.

The Incense Burner





Our tour took us through a new housing development. Again, all of the houses were the same color and like square boxes in style. We were told that if you visit a home here, that it is an insult to refuse refreshments or not finish what you are served. Traditionally, you would be served a small amount of something to drink so that if you didn’t like it you could finish it without giving insult. If they offer you more, then you could refuse or accept, as you want. Also, if the man of the house is away from home, it is totally unacceptable for another man to enter the house, even a relative of the woman of the house.

We left Muscat early in the evening, disappointed that we didn’t have time to see more of it.

Leaving Muscat



After we sailed away from Muscat, the captain announced that the Royal Navy would be conducting another anti-piracy demonstration, this one at dusk. During our time in the area, we always felt that an RN ship wasn’t far away.

When the ship came close, two launches commanded by Royal Navy sailors and Royal Marines sailed around the ship, and a helicopter circled overhead, showing their ability to counter pirate activity. It was another exciting demonstration and much appreciated by the passengers. It looked like the men on the launches were having a good time performing for the passengers lining the decks. They were zipping through the water and bouncing over wakes at a rapid pace. Afterwards, the QE sounded its deep horn and we bid farewell to the Defender, waving to the crew on Defender, who were waving back.  

HMS Defender





HMS Defender and Launches





The next day, the captain announced that because we were transiting the Indian Ocean, Gulf of Aden, and the Red Sea, an area well documented for piracy, the ship would be instituting extra security measures that included darkening the ship at night, restricting passenger access on open decks, and posting extra security personnel on outside decks. They also positioned high-powered hoses on deck that could be used against anyone who might come too close to the ship or act aggressively.

High-powered Hoses




Deck Security (his face covered to protect from sunburn)




Sound Deterrent Equipment



We were given guidelines on what to do if there were actual pirate activity. We were told to return to our staterooms and sit in the corridor outside our rooms but not in front of the door. A drill was conducted and we did just that. We were assured that the threat of an attack was very slim, but we felt comfortable knowing that the crew was prepared if it did happen.

Mother, I’m writing this days later, so you don’t need to worry. We’re well away from the area.