Osaka, Japan

Our arrival in Osaka marked the Queen Elizabeth’s first or maiden visit to Osaka. Looking out from the ship, we saw a tug next to the ship spouting arches of water from its fire hoses and hundreds of people on the pier waving as we docked. This was only the beginning of the remarkable welcome we received from the people of Osaka.

Osaka is situated on the south coast of Honshu, the largest of the four main Japanese Islands. The Osaka metropolitan area has over 20 million people, making it the third largest city in Japan, following Tokyo and Yokohama. At one time it was the capital of Japan. It is a modern, prosperous city, and even with all those people, it is remarkably clean. You see no graffiti or even a chewing gum wrapper on the street.

We docked next to a major shopping center, the Tempozan Harbor Village, and in the shadow of one of the largest Ferris wheels in Japan. It had at least sixty carriages on it, and during the day, they all seemed to be filled. So far we’ve seen a giant Ferris wheel in each of the major cities we’ve visited. The people in Japan love their Ferris wheels.

Welcoming posters lined the streets, and a steady stream of people flowed into the dock/shopping area to see the ship. It was almost like when the circus used to come into town, except the ship and the passengers were the entertainment. There was almost a holiday atmosphere throughout the city.

At one point during the day a ceremony was held in an open square where a city official welcomed the captain and officers and presented them with gifts. The captain in return, presented gifts and everyone gave speeches. Later on the ship, a group from Osaka entertained passengers, and they distributed samples of sake. The sake was served in square vessels made out of Japanese cedar and were polished and dovetailed. They were also embossed with the date and occasion in both English and Japanese.

The previous time we had been in Osaka, we took a ship’s tour to Kyoto, a city about two hours away, famous for its Golden Pavilion and temples. Since we didn’t see anything of Osaka at that time, we decided to spend our day there and visit Osaka Castle.

First thing though, we had to locate the post office and get stamps. I feel as though we’ve taken a tour of post offices around the world. Fortunately, we found one nearby. Outside the post office two people sold stamps at a brightly decorated booth, and a dancing figure of a bear standing next to them waved at everyone going by. The Japanese also love their animal and cartoon figures. You see them everywhere.

A trash truck playing music like an ice cream truck pulled up near the post office. As one worker picked up bags of trash, the driver jumped out and snapped a picture of the Queen Elizabeth before they drove away. The ship seemed to be popular with everyone.

We’ve come to feel quite comfortable in Japan and find that it is fairly easy to get around, so we decided to make our way to Osaka Castle on our own. We located the local subway station using maps we had obtained in the information office near the pier. The transportation system is excellent, and the signage is in both Japanese and English, which really helped. On occasion we stopped to ask directions, and if the person didn’t speak English, we showed them a picture of where we were trying to go and that usually got us pointed in the right direction.

We amazed ourselves as to how well we’ve been doing getting around Japan. The joy of going out on our own is that we can stay as long as we like at a site; whereas, in a tour you visit several places for very brief periods of time.

The Osaka Castle, which is the oldest and largest in Japan, was quite impressive. It was built over 400 years ago. The wooden portions have burned down several times and been rebuilt each time. The present main tower, rebuilt in 1931, was financed by donations from the people of Osaka.

Osaka Castle Main Tower

A wide inner moat and an even wider outer moat surround the castle to protect it. The outer moat was more like a river and large enough for people to take motorized boat rides on it. The walls around the castle were created using huge granite boulders brought to Osaka from Inujima Island. It is estimated that the castle consists of over one million granite stones—one weighing over 100 tons.

Castle Wall (That’s one solid piece of granite)

The grounds of the castle were quite extensive, containing a number of other buildings, including the Hokoku-Jinja Shrine. The shrine contains a statue of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, who was the first builder of the castle and the lord who unified Japan in the 16^th century. It makes you wonder whether Toyota cars aren’t named for him.

Hokoku-Jinja Shrine and Statue of Hideyoshi Toyotomi

The castle grounds also contain a Japanese garden, a lake, and a courtyard large enough to hold several food vans selling a variety of food. A large building that looked more like a British fortification previously served as a Japanese Army headquarters. The grounds covered such a broad area that when we came out of the wrong gate, it took us 30 minutes to walk around half of it to the gate that would lead us to the subway.

Outside Castle Walls

During our visit, we passed several Buddhist monks in their red robes touring the castle. One wore a wooly knit cap since it was cold, which looked rather incongruous with his traditional robes. Several of the monks carried cameras or smartphones. John asked them if he could take a picture of them. They offered to pose for him, but he said he would get them candidly.

Buddhist Monks Taking Pictures of Castle

We walked through the Japanese gardens on the castle grounds. Unfortunately, only two cherry trees on the castle grounds were in bloom. The trees in the extensive Plum Garden were still bare. In another week or so, all of the flowering trees there would have been glorious. Disappointing that we missed the cherry blossoms both in Japan and in Washington.

In front of the lake and the main tower of the castle, we saw a young couple in traditional Japanese garments being posed for a photo shoot in front of the lake and the main tower of the castle.

Couple in Traditional Garments

Children Dressed as Japanese Warriors

Several elderly docents working at the castle approached us wanting to give us information about the castle. They carried binders filled with pictures and facts and would point out things in halting English and then show us specifics in their binders. It was easy to tell that they were quite proud of their castle.

The main tower, which had seven floors, housed precious documents and painted panels from various periods of Osaka history. Since the tower had been rebuilt in 1931 and again following WWII, it was modern inside, and thankfully had an elevator. An open-air platform on the top floor provided wonderful views of Osaka. We’ve found that many of the temples and shrines have been rebuilt, which accounts for why many of them are in such excellent condition.

We successfully made our way through the subway system back to the ship. On the way up the ship’s gangway, we passed dozens of Japanese travel agents who had been touring the ship. We’ve noticed this in each Japanese port, so Cunard is obviously promoting the ship for future voyages to this area. With the number of Asian passengers that have joined the ship in recent days, they’ve already been successful promoting the ship.

When we returned to Tempozan Harbor Village and the ship, we planned to have a late lunch and go out again. A huge aquarium held center stage in the village square. But by the time we got back, our feet protested against any more walking. I don’t think they would have carried us over there. I was disappointed since I love aquariums, and based on the size of the building, this one was bound to have large fish tanks. A Universal Studios was also located in the area. We also missed shops that sold octopus dumplings and squid pancakes. Next time we are in Osaka….

From the top deck, we could see three Japanese naval ships docked nearby. Also, a replica of the Santa Maria sailed by with a boatload of tourists wanting to see the Queen Elizabeth. This is the third replica we’ve seen of Columbus’s ships used for tours in different countries. What is it about those ships that make ports want to use them for tourists?

On the top deck, we saw a Japanese passenger flying a large kite from the open deck. You never know what you are going to see out on deck.

Osaka Ferris Wheel and a Passenger Kite

As part of the festivities, the city of Osaka provided a large all-girls high school brass band to play on the pier. They were so talented, dancing and playing for nearly an hour—without any sheet music. American-style brass bands are quite popular throughout Asia. They all play with such gusto and appear to be really enjoying themselves. I could just imagine members of the band years from now telling the story of how their school was chosen to play for the Queen Elizabeth when it came to town for the first time.

School Band

Throughout the cold March evening, thousands of people came and stood on the pier, waiting for the ship to sail. Lights from cell phones and cameras continually flashed lighting up the area. Finally, at 11:00 p.m. we pulled away from the dock. People both on the dock and on the ship waved and shouted See you again, which is a saying frequently used in Japan. In one port, the words appeared on a large sign. It was very moving that people would care enough to stand in the cold that long to see the ship sail and to say farewell. It was the end of a very enjoyable day.

Yokohama, Japan

When we first arrived in Japan in Nagasaki, we were fingerprinted and photographed before we left the terminal. Now in each port in Japan, all we have to do is show our passports. Going through customs and immigration, we were greeted by smartly dressed and polite agents. A number of them wore facemasks, which made me wonder about pollution levels in Japan. The Japanese are so polite, they probably also wear masks if they have a cold or illness so they won’t infect others. Even teenage boys wore masks, which you think they would never do.

In Yokohama, because we were docked in a container port instead of at the cruise terminal pier, the city provided a fleet of coaches to shuttle people downtown. The coaches rather than city buses were quite comfortable and had lace coverings on the headrests.

Since it was Palm Sunday, we planned to stay in Yokohama and visit the Catholic cathedral there for mass. Earlier we had checked online for the local churches and learned that Sacred Heart Cathedral had one mass in English at 9:30 a.m. and that we could reach it from downtown by taking the No. 20 bus, which would drop us off directly in front of the cathedral.

The shuttle ride into town from the port area took longer than we expected, which didn’t leave us much time to get to the cathedral by bus. One of the tourist information people where the shuttle dropped us off gave us information about getting there by taxi and, in English, directed the taxi driver where to take us. He also told us that there is no tipping in Japan.

The taxi driver spoke limited English, enough to ask us where we were from. He must have approved because he gave us two pieces of wrapped candy, which we ate later and found delicious. The taxi was immaculately clean, and the tops of the seats were covered in lace cloth. One thing we have found so far in Japan is that the Japanese as a whole take pride in their appearance and where they live, and the cleanliness and maintenance of their communities reflect it.

On the long drive up the steep hill to the cathedral, we passed several western-style churches, including a Christ Church and a Church of Latter-Day Saints, and the Foreigners Cemetery. The benefit of going off the beaten track using local buses or taxis is that you get to see a lot of things away from the busy tourist areas.

The driver dropped us outside of the Sacred Heart Cathedral, and we arrived ten minutes before mass. We definitely wouldn’t have made it on time on the bus.

Sacred Heart Cathedral

We were greeted warmly by several women at the door of the cathedral and given palms. The mass was the same as it is worldwide except when it came time for the exchange of peace. Instead of shaking hands, everyone bowed to each other. The church almost has two separate parishes: Japanese and English-speakers. The announcements after mass laid out the schedule for both during the week. It was such a pleasure joining with people from various countries in the service. We felt more like visitors and less like tourists.

We had been in such a rush getting to the cathedral that we hadn’t given much thought to getting back downtown. We couldn’t even remember the name of the station we had come from. Lesson learned—make note of where the shuttle bus drops you off. We didn’t have a waiting taxi or a phone to call for one. To further complicate things, we didn’t know if we had the right money to take the bus. We had previously heard that you need exact change for the bus, which I knew we might not have. Or had that been in Korea? One of the greeters at the church told us we could use large coins on the bus and get change. Talk about innocents abroad!

Fortunately, we had two large Yen coins and the bus stop was directly across the street from the cathedral. We hopped on like natives and tried to look like we knew what we were doing, knowing that as westerners we stood out in any crowd. We were on a No. 11 bus headed either to the downtown area or we would find ourselves up in the hills of Yokohama. If nothing else, we could stay on the bus and come back to the cathedral. It was definitely an adventure.

We have found getting around in Japan using public transportation remarkably easy, especially since most of the street signs and the signs on the buses/trains are in both Japanese and English. If you take the wrong train or bus, it’s not hard to turn back around. It only becomes a problem when you have little time left to get back to the ship. We made sure we never cut our travel time that closely. Twice we’ve had younger people get up and offer us their seats.

The bus took us back to the Sakuragicho Station, near the Port of Yokohama, which also happened to be in the central part of town and an area busy with tourists and locals out for the day. Thankfully, we recognized it when we got there. It was a huge shopping area as well as the location of various amusements. It rather reminded me of the Inner Harbor of Baltimore but on an even grander scale. The ubiquitous Ferris wheel was nearby, along with amusement rides for the children.

We ran into a couple from the ship who said they were headed to the Cup of Noodles Museum. Not high on my list of things to see, but when we talked to them later, they said it was interesting—something different.

The first thing to catch our eye was the three-masted sailing ship, the Nippon Maru, white and gleaming in the harbor. During its heyday, it served as a training ship before becoming a museum anchored in the port. All over the ship the gleaming brass and shiny wood showed that it was being beautifully maintained. We spent a pleasant hour touring the ship, helped by elderly volunteers who had once served on the ship.

Sailing Training Ship Nippon Maru and Port Area

Large Piece of Artwork

Our ticket to the ship also included admission to the nearby Yokohama Port Museum, formerly the maritime museum, which we always find interesting. In the museum, we were surprised to find an extensive exhibit about Commodore Perry’s voyage with a fleet of U. S. ships to Japan in 1853, which following negotiations, resulted in the opening of Japanese ports to western trade. Perry’s goal also included rescuing shipwrecked sailors held in Japan. Treaties with the U.K., Netherlands, Russia, and France quickly followed the Japanese treaty with the U.S.

It’s amazing how many of the things we’ve seen throughout this voyage have related to events covered in my high school history classes. It’s only now that I realize the importance of so many of those events. Travel definitely broadens your knowledge and understanding of world events and helps you piece them together.

The museum also displayed pictures of famous people who had visited Yokohama, including Charlie Chaplin, Helen Keller, and a U.S. baseball team that included Babe Ruth. A paper fan autographed by Babe Ruth and other players was on display. Baseball is very big in Japan, and at one time, Yokohama had a Lou Gehrig Stadium.

The port area was filled with people out for a Sunday afternoon. It was fun watching children on the amusement rides—John taking pictures of one ride he particularly enjoyed as a child. Long lines of people waited to get into numerous restaurants—especially the MacDonald’s. Given the prices for things in Japan, which is very expensive, the cost of a meal for a family at MacDonald’s could easily have been the equivalent of a day’s wages.

Yokohama’s Version of Tower Bridge

We walked through a department store just to see what they were like in Japan. Smartly dressed young women in identical dresses and wearing black gaucho-style hats sat at information booths and walked the floors giving directions. Everywhere we went in Japan, we came into contact with neatly and modestly dressed people. It reminded me of how people in the West dressed during the 1950s before dress became much more casual. The Japanese really take pride in their appearance.

The department store restroom was an education. Each stall contained a complex control panel. I’ve heard about Japanese toilets, but this still surprised me. From what I could figure out from the symbols, the panel had buttons for a spray, heated seat, sanitation, air dry, a shower, and several buttons for things I couldn’t figure out. I was thankful that it flushed itself and I didn’t have to push anything. Sometimes you can be given too many options.

The visit to Yokohama by the Queen Elizabeth had created a lot of interest, and while we were waiting for the shuttle back to the ship, a camera crew came up and interviewed us about the ship and our voyage. We may be showing up on Japanese television someday.

Traveling back to the ship, we passed a colorful and ornate gate into Chinatown. There seems to be a Chinatown in every country. Later I saw on the map that ten separate gates defined the area of Chinatown, which covers a large area of the city.

We had a very pleasant day in Yokohama. My only disappointment was not getting to see Mount Fuji, which was close but couldn’t be seen from Yokohama. We could have taken a tour into the countryside to see the volcano but opted for a day in Yokohama instead since we had wanted to go to the cathedral. Two passengers who took the tour said that cloud cover prevented them from seeing any of the volcano. That information made me feel better, knowing that we had made the right choice.  

Kagoshima, Japan

Japan has over 6,000 islands scattered across the Pacific Ocean. Kagoshima lies on the southwestern tip of the island of Kyushu, one of the four major islands in Japan.

Kagoshima has been nicknamed the “Naples of the Eastern World” because of its bay, located in a caldera; an active volcano, Mount Sakurajima; and mild climate. Its location in the Pacific Ring of Fire accounts not only for its volcano but also for its hot springs and the world’s only natural steam sand baths. People come to Kagoshima to be buried in the steamy sands and immerse themselves in steam baths.

Kagoshima Welcome

Mount Sakurajima’s last eruption in 1914 produced so much lava it greatly increased the size of the island around it. When the evacuated townspeople returned, they discovered that the island was now connected to the nearby peninsula. People can now drive to the base of the volcano, although no closer than a couple of miles.

When we were in Rabaul, New Guinea, I wrote that that would probably be the only time in my life I would have breakfast near an active volcano. I was wrong. In Kogashima, sitting down for breakfast, I looked out and saw Sakurajima, an active volcano five times the size of the Rabaul volcano. Who would have thought I would eat breakfast that close to an active volcano twice in my life—and just within a few weeks.

Fortunately, we got to see Mount Sakurajima early in the morning before rain began to fall. The view wasn’t very clear, but at least we got to see it. By midmorning, the volcano was totally obscured by the fog and rain. We were thankful that we hadn’t booked the tour to the volcano that we had been considering. People who took the tour didn’t get to see a thing and returned wet and miserable.

Mount Sakurajima Before Heavy Rains Started

It is said that the industrial revolution in Japan started in Kagoshima. Statues of the 17 students sent to study Western science and technology in England and the USA stand in front of the main train station.

Kagoshima has the dubious distinction of being one of the places where Kamikaze pilots flew out of during WWII. The Chiran Peace Museum for Kamikaze Pilots is located at a former air base.

We waited for a while before going out, hoping the rain would let up. It truly was a miserable day with rain that got heavier as the day went on. Unfortunately, it only got worse, with strong winds blowing the rain sideways. An umbrella wouldn’t provide much protection from that driving rain.

The city of Kagoshima put on a nice welcoming ceremony for the ship and had erected tents providing information and selling local goods. Tourist information people stood in the rain getting soaked guiding people where to go. They didn’t allow the weather to dim their hospitality.

We decided with all of their efforts, we couldn’t leave without seeing something of Kagoshima. So we put on two layers of clothing and the heavy vinyl raincoats we had brought with us and trudged out into the rain. It was blowing so hard we almost got knocked over making our way to the shuttle bus. If nothing else, we would ride the shuttle bus downtown, a 30-minute ride, and see something of the city. During the ride, we learned that the DIY centers in Kagoshima are called “Handman.”

When we arrived in the center of Kagoshima, a long line of passengers was waiting miserably in the rain to return to the ship. We didn’t bother getting off the bus.

Just before the ship sailed at 5:00 p.m. we looked out to discover that a brass band had come out onto the dock area and were playing, along with women in kimonos waving flags. Children didn’t mind the rain and were jumping in puddles. The band played under tents, but the band director, soloists and dancers performed in the rain, which by this time was a deluge. The kids in the band played with such enthusiasm you would have thought it was a sunny spring day. We stood on the deck and cheered and wave, trying to show our appreciation. As we pulled away, we heard the band playing “In the Mood” and people yelling, “See you again.”

Unfortunately, we don’t have any pictures that we took in the city of Kagoshima and the farewell on the dock. The ones we took were so blurred by the rain that we could barely make out what they were. However, the scene of the band playing their hearts out in the heavy rain is one I will never forget.