Tuesday, April 26, 2016

Dubai, United Arab Emirates


 After sailing through the Arabian Sea, we entered the Gulf of Oman before transiting the Straits of Hormuz between Iran and Oman, en route to Dubai. Dubai sits at the southwestern part of the Arabian Peninsula and is the second largest of the seven emirates of the United Arab Emirates, a union of countries.

We arrived at Port Rashid, one of the largest ports in the Middle East and the world’s largest man-made port, to find ourselves docked close to the QE2.

The city of Dubai has about nine million people, with only one million of them actually citizens of Dubai. The remaining millions came from approximately 200 other countries to work there.

Burj Khalifa - World's Tallest Building



Oil experts from Dubai began in 1958. The royal family of Dubai recognized that the oil reserves would not last forever and looked for other ways to bolster their economy. They made Dubai a tax-free area to appeal to tourist. It worked. They use the profits from the oil to provide services like schools and hospitals, but only for residents. Anyone living and working in Dubai must pay for their own services. Rents are very high in Dubai City, so workers live far out of the city. They also don’t bring their families but share accommodations with other workers.

Before Dubai became the draw for tax-free shopping, it was reliant on its pearl industry, and then oil exports. The shallow and warm waters around Dubai provide perfect conditions for oysters. Pearl divers, who could hold their breath for up to two minutes would dive for pearls, some making 50 to 100 dives a day.

On the day of our visit, we were blessed with comfortable temperatures and light breezes, which I understand are quite unusual for Dubai. With temperatures reaching 110F, even the bus waiting sheds are air-conditioned.

With only a short day in Dubai, we opted to take the Golden City tour, which took us to the historic section of Dubai. We passed through the modern section, which is usually what is shown in photos of the city. Skyscrapers covered the landscape, including the world’s tallest building. We traveled on modern motorways that had blankets of flowers and greenery on both sides, which surprised us since we expected Dubai to be very arid.  

Dubai City was carved from the desert and relies on distilled seawater. We heard that there are no sewers in the city and that all sewage is pumped out and taken by tanker trucks to treatment plants far outside the city. The treated water is then used to irrigate the numerous plants and flowers seen throughout the city.

Dubai is continually building new canals and artificial islands to provide additional waterfront property. Many jut out into the sea in decorative patterns like the famous Dubai Palm. We were disappointed that we didn’t get to see the Palm Island. One day was just not enough time to see even just the major sights.

Palm Island was built using imported volcanic rock. Other islands are being built with old broken concrete from demolished buildings as a base and then covered with layers and layers of sand. It could take up to 30 years for the earth to compact enough for anything to be built on it, but vibrating machines are now being used to speed up the process. These new areas sell for $50 million each and the buyers must make whatever they build on it self-sustaining and ensure zero contamination. The use of clean energy is encouraged, and even the taxis use hybrid cars.

Our tour took us to the Jumeirah section of Dubai, which is the location of the Souk Madinat Hotel, the iconic building shaped like a sail. The hotel is quite luxurious with each level of the hotel consisting of two-floor suites. The bus parked along the beachfront, and we had a terrific view of the hotel and the white sand beach and emerald green water surrounding it.

Souk Madinat Hotel




We also had a good view of the Burj Al Arab, a hotel built in the shape of a wave. Fences shaped like waves ran along the road.

Our next stop was at the Jumeirah Mosque, a short distance away, where we stopped for a quick photo take. We noticed that some of the mosques we’ve seen in our travels have one, two, or more minarets and wondered why. When I asked someone, I got the impression that it depends on the wealth of the community the mosque serves, which may or may not be the full story.

Jumeirah Mosque



Our next stop was at the Dubai Museum, located at the site of the Al Fahidi Fort. Entering the 18th century fort with its crenelated towers was like walking back into history or at the very least, a scene from the movie Beau Gest.

A subterranean museum under the fort held a number of realistic displays that depicted life as it once was in Dubai. The scenes looked so natural, I almost felt as though I could step right into them. They showed various aspects of everyday life. One depicted a tailor, who sat in front of an ancient Singer sewing machine. The exhibits were outstanding, and I would highly recommend a visit to the Dubai Museum to anyone visiting Dubai.

Dubai Museum – Al Fahidi Fort









Exhibits in Museum







Models of Young Girls Wearing Gold Necklaces





After leaving the museum, we loaded onto one of the Abra water taxis for a trip down the canal to the Spice Souk. Our tour guide pointed out square structures on the tops of buildings that were open from four sides, allowing cool air to drop inside and the hot air to be pushed out—a natural form of air conditioning.

Abra Water Taxis



After wandering about the souk with its various stalls selling spices, textiles, and household goods, we walked the short distance to the Gold Souk on Sikkat al Khail Road. The souk was filled with jewelry shops specializing in gold, jewels, and precious stones. The shop windows were filled with large, intricately crafted gold bracelets and necklaces, some with several wide strands and ornaments and even gold breastplates that looked like something Cleopatra would have worn. Men carrying trays with a variety of cold beverages for sale seemed to be doing more business than the gold merchants.

Spice Souk



Gold Souk




After we returned to the ship following our tour and had lunch, we took the shuttle to the Dubai Mall. John was still on the lookout for a new camera now that our current one was leaving black marks on our photos.

Dubai is a tax free city and paradise for people who like to shop. I don’t have enough words to describe the mall.  To say that it was impressive is an understatement, in size, décor, and content. Part of the mall was in the form of a souk and was beautifully decorated. It even contained a model of a dinosaur skeleton.

Dubai Mall Souk





It addition to it being the largest shopping malls I’ve ever been in, which is an understatement, it housed one of the largest aquarium tanks we’ve ever seen. Unfortunately, we missed seeing the divers that entered the tank to feed the fish.

Dubai Mall Aquarium



The mall also had a large ice rink with people skating. A hockey team sat nearby having coffee waiting for when they could begin their game. Entering such a mall, it is easy to forget where you are. However, seeing men and women in their white and black robes quickly reminded us that we were in the Middle East.

Men wore white robes; women wore black, including scarves covering their heads and wrapped around their necks. In the mall, we actually saw a couple, garbed in their robes, walking hand in hand.  Since we had been warned that there are penalties for public displays of affection, we wondered whether that couple was pushing the boundaries of what was allowed.

Returning to the ship, we stood on the deck and looked out at the QE2, which looked rather deserted and forlorn. She was strung with colorful lights, as she would never have been when actively sailing. Her tenders and lifeboats had been removed, which altered her distinctive appearance somewhat.

QE2 (taken on our arrival in the morning)




After the QE2 went out of commission, it was bought by investors and docked in Dubai with the intention of turning her into a luxury hotel. Unfortunately, a turn in the world economy stopped that. We heard several rumors about what is going to happen to her. Earlier we read that a group of investors was trying to take her back to the Clyde. In Dubai, we heard from one source that she was being modified to serve as a five-star restaurant. Our tour guide said that she was going to be used as a floating conference center that would sail around the Arabian Gulf.

Our first sighting of the QE2 had been in Athens in 1976 when she was fairly new. As a young, newly-married couple, we thought that sailing on her would never be a possibility. However, we had the good fortune to sail on her during her final world voyage in 2008.

It was sad that our last sighting of her would be in Dubai. She deserves much better.



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