When
we first arrived in Japan in Nagasaki, we were fingerprinted and photographed
before we left the terminal. Now in each port in Japan, all we have to do is
show our passports. Going through customs and immigration, we were greeted by smartly
dressed and polite agents. A number of them wore facemasks, which made me
wonder about pollution levels in Japan. The Japanese are so polite, they
probably also wear masks if they have a cold or illness so they won’t infect
others. Even teenage boys wore masks, which you think they would never do.
In Yokohama, because
we were docked in a container port instead of at the cruise terminal pier, the
city provided a fleet of coaches to shuttle people downtown. The coaches rather than city buses were quite comfortable and had lace coverings on the headrests.
Since
it was Palm Sunday, we planned to stay in Yokohama and visit the Catholic
cathedral there for mass. Earlier we had checked online for the local churches
and learned that Sacred Heart Cathedral had one mass in English at 9:30 a.m.
and that we could reach it from downtown by taking the No. 20 bus, which would
drop us off directly in front of the cathedral.
The
shuttle ride into town from the port area took longer than we expected, which
didn’t leave us much time to get to the cathedral by bus. One of the tourist information
people where the shuttle dropped us off gave us information about getting there
by taxi and, in English, directed the taxi driver where to take us. He also
told us that there is no tipping in Japan.
The
taxi driver spoke limited English, enough to ask us where we were from. He must
have approved because he gave us two pieces of wrapped candy, which we ate
later and found delicious. The taxi was immaculately clean, and the tops of the
seats were covered in lace cloth. One thing we have found so far in Japan is
that the Japanese as a whole take pride in their appearance and where they live,
and the cleanliness and maintenance of their communities reflect it.
On
the long drive up the steep hill to the cathedral, we passed several
western-style churches, including a Christ Church and a Church of Latter-Day
Saints, and the Foreigners Cemetery. The benefit of going off the beaten track
using local buses or taxis is that you get to see a lot of things away from the
busy tourist areas.
The
driver dropped us outside of the Sacred Heart Cathedral, and we arrived ten
minutes before mass. We definitely wouldn’t have made it on time on the bus.
Sacred
Heart Cathedral
We
were greeted warmly by several women at the door of the cathedral and given
palms. The mass was the same as it is worldwide except when it came time for
the exchange of peace. Instead of shaking hands, everyone bowed to each other.
The church almost has two separate parishes: Japanese and English-speakers. The
announcements after mass laid out the schedule for both during the week. It was
such a pleasure joining with people from various countries in the service. We
felt more like visitors and less like tourists.
We
had been in such a rush getting to the cathedral that we hadn’t given much
thought to getting back downtown. We couldn’t even remember the name of the
station we had come from. Lesson learned—make note of where the shuttle bus
drops you off. We didn’t have a waiting taxi or a phone to call for one. To
further complicate things, we didn’t know if we had the right money to take the
bus. We had previously heard that you need exact change for the bus, which I
knew we might not have. Or had that been in Korea? One of the greeters at the
church told us we could use large coins on the bus and get change. Talk about
innocents abroad!
Fortunately,
we had two large Yen coins and the bus stop was directly across the street from
the cathedral. We hopped on like natives and tried to look like we knew what we
were doing, knowing that as westerners we stood out in any crowd. We were on a
No. 11 bus headed either to the downtown area or we would find ourselves up in
the hills of Yokohama. If nothing else, we could stay on the bus and come back
to the cathedral. It was definitely an adventure.
We
have found getting around in Japan using public transportation remarkably easy,
especially since most of the street signs and the signs on the buses/trains are
in both Japanese and English. If you take the wrong train or bus, it’s not hard
to turn back around. It only becomes a problem when you have little time left
to get back to the ship. We made sure we never cut our travel time that
closely. Twice we’ve had younger people get up and offer us their seats.
The
bus took us back to the Sakuragicho Station, near the Port of Yokohama, which
also happened to be in the central part of town and an area busy with tourists
and locals out for the day. Thankfully, we recognized it when we got there. It
was a huge shopping area as well as the location of various amusements. It
rather reminded me of the Inner Harbor of Baltimore but on an even grander
scale. The ubiquitous Ferris wheel was nearby, along with amusement rides for
the children.
We
ran into a couple from the ship who said they were headed to the Cup of Noodles
Museum. Not high on my list of things to see, but when we talked to them later,
they said it was interesting—something different.
The
first thing to catch our eye was the three-masted sailing ship, the Nippon Maru,
white and gleaming in the harbor. During its heyday, it served as a training
ship before becoming a museum anchored in the port. All over the ship the
gleaming brass and shiny wood showed that it was being beautifully maintained.
We spent a pleasant hour touring the ship, helped by elderly volunteers who had
once served on the ship.
Sailing
Training Ship Nippon Maru and Port Area
Our
ticket to the ship also included admission to the nearby Yokohama Port Museum, formerly
the maritime museum, which we always find interesting. In the museum, we were
surprised to find an extensive exhibit about Commodore Perry’s voyage with a
fleet of U. S. ships to Japan in 1853, which following negotiations, resulted
in the opening of Japanese ports to western trade. Perry’s goal also included
rescuing shipwrecked sailors held in Japan. Treaties with the U.K.,
Netherlands, Russia, and France quickly followed the Japanese treaty with the
U.S.
It’s
amazing how many of the things we’ve seen throughout this voyage have related
to events covered in my high school history classes. It’s only now that I
realize the importance of so many of those events. Travel definitely broadens
your knowledge and understanding of world events and helps you piece them
together.
The
museum also displayed pictures of famous people who had visited Yokohama,
including Charlie Chaplin, Helen Keller, and a U.S. baseball team that included
Babe Ruth. A paper fan autographed by Babe Ruth and other players was on
display. Baseball is very big in Japan, and at one time, Yokohama had a Lou
Gehrig Stadium.
The
port area was filled with people out for a Sunday afternoon. It was fun
watching children on the amusement rides—John taking pictures of one ride he
particularly enjoyed as a child. Long lines of people waited to get into numerous
restaurants—especially the MacDonald’s. Given the prices for things in Japan, which
is very expensive, the cost of a meal for a family at MacDonald’s could easily have
been the equivalent of a day’s wages.
Yokohama’s
Version of Tower Bridge
We
walked through a department store just to see what they were like in Japan. Smartly
dressed young women in identical dresses and wearing black gaucho-style hats
sat at information booths and walked the floors giving directions. Everywhere
we went in Japan, we came into contact with neatly and modestly dressed people.
It reminded me of how people in the West dressed during the 1950s before dress
became much more casual. The Japanese really take pride in their appearance.
The
department store restroom was an education. Each stall contained a complex
control panel. I’ve heard about Japanese toilets, but this still surprised me.
From what I could figure out from the symbols, the panel had buttons for a
spray, heated seat, sanitation, air dry, a shower, and several buttons for
things I couldn’t figure out. I was thankful that it flushed itself and I
didn’t have to push anything. Sometimes you can be given too many options.
The
visit to Yokohama by the Queen Elizabeth had created a lot of interest, and
while we were waiting for the shuttle back to the ship, a camera crew came up
and interviewed us about the ship and our voyage. We may be showing up on
Japanese television someday.
Traveling
back to the ship, we passed a colorful and ornate gate into Chinatown. There
seems to be a Chinatown in every country. Later I saw on the map that ten separate
gates defined the area of Chinatown, which covers a large area of the city.
We
had a very pleasant day in Yokohama. My only disappointment was not getting to
see Mount Fuji, which was close but couldn’t be seen from Yokohama. We could
have taken a tour into the countryside to see the volcano but opted for a day
in Yokohama instead since we had wanted to go to the cathedral. Two passengers
who took the tour said that cloud cover prevented them from seeing any of the
volcano. That information made me feel better, knowing that we had made the
right choice.
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