Puerto Princesa, Palawan, Philippines

We awoke in Puerto Princesa to the sound of native drums. Looking out, we saw that we were being greeted by a huge welcoming committee consisting of drummers, male dancers doing traditional dances, dancing children, and then couples dancing in more recent traditional costumes of white gowns with plaid shawls wrapped over one shoulder. The entertainment went on for quite some time and was a nice welcome to Puerto Princesa, or Puerto to the locals.

Filipino Dancers

When we left the ship, young women dressed in colorful gowns welcomed us and draped colorful wooden beads around our necks. This was the Queen Elizabeth’s first or maiden call into Puerto Princesa, and the people were doing their best to make it memorable.

Palawan is the southernmost island of the Philippines and is considered by many to be the beach capital of the Philippines. It has the reputation for being the cleanest and greenest city in the Philippines. Also, the surrounding waters of the South China and Sulu Seas have marine life that draws divers from all over. Gloria Barnett, the Wild Fish Lady who spoke earlier, said that her favorite place to dive was the Philippines.

While we were docked at the pier, Philippine Coast Guard boats sat along the side of the ship. It was a hot day and their only covering was a couple of scarves draped over some poles, and on one of the boats, a large piece of cardboard. It had to have been a long, hot day for the men on the boats. Other boats ferried people across the bay. Narrow boats with outriggers on both sides, they looked like spiders skittering across the water.

Philippine Coast Guard Boat

During the port presentation for Puerto Princesa, we learned that since we were arriving on a Sunday, an English mass was going to be said at 10:00 a.m. and at 6:00 p.m. at the Immaculate Conception Cathedral, a short walk from the pier. We joined a large number of passengers who walked to the cathedral. The twin spires of the cathedral towering over the city made it easy to find.

Of course we had to run the gauntlet of tricycle drivers who wanted to give us a lift. The tricycle is a motorbike with a covered sidecar that supposedly holds two people. Perhaps two slender Filipinos, but it would have been a tight squeeze for others.

We arrived at the cathedral early while a service was going on and had to wait outside under a covered porch at the side door for the next mass. The church was packed, and it was terribly hot. I thought longingly of my Chinese fan resting in a drawer back at the ship.

Once that service was over and the people milled out, we went in, thinking that there would only be a few passengers at this English mass. But again people packed the church. Later we learned that a mass was also held in the center of the local shopping mall.

This was the first time the Queen Elizabeth visited Puerto Princesa, and it might be rare that any cruise ship stops there. As a result, the children kept looking at us, finding it strange that we were there among them at their church. At one point during the exchange of peace, the man in front of us turned and said, “Welcome to Palawan,” which we found quite touching.

The heat in the cathedral was stifling, even with the very tall louvered windows and the electric fans that were laboring hard to circulate the air. I have to admit that my attention occasionally strayed as I focused on how long it would take for the oscillating fan to point in our direction again. The open windows made an easy entry for the birds that were enjoying themselves flying above the altar.

The singing of the choir was quite beautiful. I looked around for a choir behind us, and when I didn’t see one, I thought perhaps the music was from a recording. John then pointed out the circle of young people at the front of the church that made up the choir.

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (Notice the Hogwarts' graduate coming down the aisle)

We had originally been scheduled to visit Cebu in the Philippines, but the captain announced early in our voyage that they had cancelled our stop there because of navigating problems they anticipated in that port. As a result, the tour office had to quickly arrange whatever tours they could in Puerto Princesa. The only place on the island we were interested in, the Subterranean River National Park, wasn’t available through the ship, and when we checked with the tour office on the pier, all tours were fully booked. 

The river flows underground through a complex cave system for over five miles, traveling through towering caverns. We were told that only a small number of people can go through at a time and that there is always a long line of people waiting for the boats. That was disappointing, but we enjoyed our day wandering around the city and the seafront. Anyone visiting Puerto Princesa should make reservations for the subterranean river boat ride before they arrive in Puerto Princesa or travel there early in the morning and get in line.

On our voyage to and away from Puerto Princesa, we traveled close to many of the islands that make up the Philippines. Being within cell phone range, the Filipino crewmembers congregated on the deck with their cell phones, talking to family and friends. Many of them had family members join them on the ship at Puerto Princesa for the journey to Manila, a two-day journey. We met our cabin attendant’s wife who joined him on the ship. When he leaves her in Manila, he won’t see her again for five months. He said his mother and children had traveled from the island where they live and would be waiting for him at the pier in Manila. This was quite an event for him. In his eighteen years working on ships, this would be the first time a ship he was on would be stopping in Manila and he could see his family there. Most of the crewmembers join the ship for a contract of nine months a year and don’t see their families until they return again. They don’t have an easy life.

We didn’t sail until 9:30 p.m., and as night descended, we watched lights come on across the city, highlighting the twin spires of the cathedral. As we prepared to sail, the Queen Elizabeth sounded three loud blasts of the ship’s horn to bid farewell to Puerto Princesa. A band played on the pier, and people waved as we sailed away. The Filipinos are very sweet and cheerful people and we enjoyed our day among them, especially in their cathedral.

Looking back at Puerto Princesa, brightly lit up in the night sky was the last thing we could still see of this tropical city—the golden arches of MacDonald’s.