Tuesday, February 23, 2016

Melbourne, Australia


 To reach Melbourne, the Queen Elizabeth passed through a narrow gap at the entrance to Port Phillip Bay and sailed through a stretch of water known as The Rip, one that must be navigated carefully because of its strong currents and shallow waters. The captain and crew probably were greatly relieved when we finally docked. Thankfully, while all this was going on, we were sound asleep.

Melbourne (pronounced Melbern by the Australians) is the capital of the state of Victoria and the second largest city in Australia. It has twice been identified by The Economist as one of the World’s Most Livable Cities, based on its cultural attributes, fine climate, cost of living, and social conditions such as low crime rates and exceptional health care. It should also be identified as one of the friendliest cities. The volunteer greeters at both the ship and downtown were wonderful representatives of the people of Melbourne.

Looking out from our cabin we were disappointed to see dark clouds and rain. We later boarded the shuttle into Melbourne loaded down with rain jackets and umbrellas, but it wasn’t long before the sun started peeping out between the clouds, and it became bright and sunny by early afternoon.

As we traveled from the harbor into Melbourne, we passed Victorian-era homes and buildings with intricate iron railings that the Australians call lace work. The railings can be near the sidewalk as a fence or along the balconies of the buildings. It is strange seeing buildings with this beautiful fretwork sitting next to modern buildings that look like square boxes.

Melbourne is booming with buildings being constructed throughout the city. In many places, facades from older buildings are being preserved with large skyscrapers built behind them. It preserves some of the original feel of the city while allowing the city to expand upwards.

The shuttle dropped us outside the National Gallery of Victoria, which had a huge picture of Andy Warhol on the side of the building. If nothing else, it provided a good landmark where to pick up the shuttle later for our return journey to the ship. The gallery was featuring an exhibit of Andy Warhol’s artwork.

Melbourne has more trams than any other city in the world, so getting around the city was quite easy, especially for such a large city. The City Circle Line (free and well used) passed close enough of the city’s highlights to have kept us occupied for days. On the tram we passed the Melbourne Aquarium; the Docklands and Victoria Harbor, which are being redeveloped for commercial and entertainment purposes; the Melbourne Star Observation Wheel, a huge Ferris wheel; and numerous parks and gardens.

Melbourne Tram with St. Paul’s Cathedral




At Williams Street, we hopped off the tram to visit Victoria Market, the largest open-air market in Australia. We wandered around, stopping for a coffee and a Sicilian donut, which is like fried pizza frete we used to get at our church festival in Pennsylvania. Ordering coffee can be a bit of a challenge in Australia. A short coffee is strong, a tall coffee is lighter, and a flat white has milk but is supposed to have less froth than a cappuccino. We found it to have even more froth, but it was delicious. While the market was interesting, with so many places to see in the city, I would visit it only if you aren’t limited in the amount of time you have in Melbourne.

After waiting a long time for the next tram, we gave up and walked to where we wanted to go in the city. There is so much to see on every street. We wandered into the State Library of Victoria, which was a magnificent building, and saw hundreds of people congregating in an area using the Wi-Fi the library provided. It isn’t just the young people who are connected to their systems. An elderly couple on the shuttle bus ignored the sights while they checked their Facebook pages.

Some of our favorite places to visit in Australia are the Victorian arcades, forerunners of modern shopping malls. Melbourne has several arcades, including the Royal Arcade and the Block Arcade. A dome within the Block Arcade houses a large clock that can be seen from two sides. Each time the clock strikes the hour, two figures holding long brass horns turn toward each other and the sound of horns blowing can be heard throughout the arcade.

Arcade Clock



Fitzroy Gardens is one of the best gardens/parks in Melbourne. Among other things, it contains Captain Cook’s cottage, which was dismantled in his birthplace in Britain and erected in the park. (Captain Cook discovered and mapped large parts of Australia but was killed by natives when his ship stopped at the Hawaiian Islands on his way back to England.)

The gardens also contain the Model Tudor Village. The small buildings of the village were built in England and sent to the city of Melbourne in appreciation for the food and other supplies the people of Melbourne sent to Britain during WWII. It is worth visiting Fitzroy Gardens just to see the tree carved with fairies and other creatures.    

The Yarra River winds through the city in an area called the Southbank. A beautiful walk along its embankment is filled with shops and restaurants. A relaxing stroll along the river was a nice way to end our day in Melbourne. From a bridge over the river, we watched an eight-women’s crew team row by and thought of our daughter and her days on rivers with her crew team.

Yarra River Embankment



Near the bridge over the Yarra River, you can catch tour and restaurant boats for a cruise up and down the river. The view of Melbourne from the river is supposed to be spectacular, but with only one day in Melbourne, we just didn’t have enough time to take one. It would be a good way to see the city and many of its highlights. Perhaps on a future visit if we are lucky enough to return to Australia. We saw a dirigible or Zeppelin flying over the city, so that may be another way of seeing Melbourne.

Along the river sits the tallest building in the southern hemisphere, the Eureka. According to our bus driver, the gold stripes on the outside of the building represent the gold rush in Australia, and a long vertical slash of red represents the blood shed by Australians. At the top of the 92-floor building, the Eureka Skydeck 88 provides a viewing platform they call the Edge Experience. The Edge is an all-glass (including floor) structure that juts out from the building 88 floors above the ground. Not for the faint of heart.

Eureka Building and Eureka Skydeck 88





After having covered a good deal of the city, by tram and foot, we made our way back to the meeting place for the shuttle bus, close to Federation Square. The square is referred to as Melbourne’s meeting place, and it was teaming with people. The square is also the location of the Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI), which is housed in a building that looks like several smashed cardboard boxes that have been draped in camouflage cloth. The building looks a bit strange sitting near historic structures such as St. Paul’s Cathedral.

Federation Square



It is said that the people of Sydney were slow to warm up to the Sydney Opera House when it was first built. If I lived in Melbourne, it would take me a long time to warm up to the buildings in Federation Square. They were probably designed to represent the natural countryside or sandy outback. That makes sense since Federation Square is also the home of the Ian Potter Center, which contains one of the largest collections of Aboriginal artifacts in the country.

Back at the harbor, we watched the cruise ship Diamond Princess sail away. From the top deck, we waved to the passengers on the Diamond, and they waved back—each of us wondering what the other ship was like.

The Spirit of Tasmania, a large car/passenger ferry bound for Tasmania, also set sail. Set sail is such a strange term to use these days when ships don’t have a single sail. When it came time for us to leave, we were sorry to motor away from Melbourne. It was a delightful place to visit, and we hope we can return there some day.


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