Cape Town, South Africa (Day One)

In the early hours of January 25, we sailed into Table Bay and arrived in Cape Town, which sits close to the Cape of Good Hope and the tip of the continent of Africa. It was the end of the first segment of our journey, having traveled approximately 8300 miles since leaving Southampton.

The Portuguese were the first Europeans to round the Cape of Good Hope and stop at what is now Cape Town. (Those Portuguese explores sure got around.) Later, sailors from a shipwrecked Dutch vessel ended up living there and began growing vegetables and bartering with the local Hottentots. After that the Dutch East India Company stopped there for supplies and established settlements. During the Napoleonic wars, the British recognized its strategic location and took control of what was called the “Gibraltar of India.”

As a result of these influences, South Africa is a mixture of African, Dutch, and British traditions, and you can see this from the street names, the styles of architecture, and the languages spoken there (Afrikaans, Xhosa, and English).

Our first day in Cape Town was bright and sunny but cooler than we had expected, especially for summer in Africa. Sea breezes from the coast probably do a lot to keep Cape Town comfortable, and it felt like the temperature was in the low 70s F.

I say “felt like” since temperatures are given in centigrade. The U.S. seems to be the only country in the world that doesn’t use centigrade or the metric system for measurement. So most times we don’t know what the temperature is or how far away something is. The scale in the fitness center is in kilograms, so I don’t even know what I weigh now, which might be a blessing. We are going to have to go into Google for a conversion chart.

The ship berthed in Duncan Dock just on the fringes of the city. We had a wonderful panoramic view of the area. The setting, Cape Town with Table Mountain behind it, was as remarkable as it appears in photos. We got to see the phenomenon the locals call the “tablecloth,” which is when the top of Table Mountain becomes shrouded in thick white fog. It didn’t bode well for our 9:00 a.m. tour to the mountaintop, but we kept our fingers crossed that it would lift by the time we got there.

Table Mountain with a Tablecloth

The South African immigration officials were quite thorough when it came to checking passports. Everyone (including crew) had to exit the ship by 11:00 a.m. to have their passports stamped, and passengers were not allowed to go back onboard until everyone had been cleared—even passengers who didn’t plan to get off the ship. Since we had a 9:00 a.m. Cunard-sponsored tour, our group was called early and we were on our way. Officials at the exit examined all bags and removed any fruit passengers were carrying.

As this was the end of one of the voyage segments, some passengers were leaving the ship and new passengers coming onboard. A number of passengers had told us they were going on to Victoria Falls and others were planning to stay in South Africa for the winter before returning home. Some passengers were leaving the ship for a short safari and would be rejoining the ship in Port Elizabeth.

As our tour bus drove out of the dockyard, the first thing we saw was a sign that said, “Stash it, don’t flash it.” A good warning no matter where you are.

Our bus tour took us through the downtown area past businesses and government buildings. Like any other large city, Cape Town was clogged with traffic, so we slowly passed a number of historic sites, including the SA Houses of Parliament; the Slave Lodge, now a museum; and Groote Kerk, the oldest church in the country, completed in 1704.

The bus followed a winding route up into Table Mountain National Park and stopped where we had a terrific view of Cape Town below us. The park has over 2200 different kinds of plants, more than the United Kingdom and New Zealand combined. At its highest point, Table Mountain is 3,533 feet high. We were told that at one time the mountains were as high as the Rocky Mountains and that flat Table Mountain was a valley between two higher mountains before they eroded to what they are today. The mountains are granite at their base but a softer, sandy stone higher. Parts looked like stacked stone.

Cape Town from Table Mountain

When we got off the bus, the tour guide handed us a ticket for the cable car ride to the top. What cable car? John had booked the tour and hadn’t mentioned a cable car. Cable cars and I don’t do well together. Seeing how large the cars were and being told that the ride only lasted four minutes, I decided to be a good sport and go along with John. I could always cling to a pole in the middle of the car and close my eyes. I also felt better when I saw a sign stating that the Swiss had built the cable car system. They have lots of experience building cable cars and ski lifts.

Mountain Table Cable Car

As soon as the car began its journey, we entered a fog so thick we couldn’t see anything. The outer floor in the car rotated around as we ascended, with the center of the car rotating in the other direction—ordinarily giving everyone a good view. Between the movement and the white fog swirling around us, it felt as though we were in a blender.

High on the top of Table Mountain, it felt as though the temperature had dropped by at least 30 degrees F. The fog was dense and the wind swirled cold wet mist against us. We had come laden with straw hats and sunglasses and were covered in sunblock. It was freezing, and we quickly put on the windbreakers we had packed in a carry bag just in case it was cool on the mountain. We didn’t expect it to be frigid. We felt sorry for the people in shorts and tank tops huddled around the entrance waiting for the next cable car to the bottom.

Top of Table Mountain in the Fog

Top of Table Mountain on a Clear Day (from photo)

The cable car attendant said that this was only the second time this month it had been foggy. We couldn’t see anything from this wonderful point and wasn’t consoled when the attendant said, “Well at least you can say you were here.”   

Model of Table Mountain

It was when we got below that we saw the sign that cautioned passengers to be prepared to hike back down if the cable car experienced problems—this after seeing a monument at the top to a woman who had died of heat stroke while hiking one of the trails. Oh, well, at least we can say we’ve been there.

Trail Down Mountain

Tip: If you go to the top of Table Mountain, take a jacket or windbreaker. You’ll be glad you did. The fog rolls on and off the mountain, so even if it’s clear when you first get there, it may not stay that way. Also, the Hop On, Hop Off bus stops at Table Mountain and you can get a cable car ticket there. It can be a less expensive way of seeing Table Mountain than a tour. If you sit on the top deck of the bus, it’s a good idea to have a jacket.

After returning to the ship and having a quick lunch, we took the shuttle provided by Cunard to the Victoria and Alfred (yes, Alfred, not Albert) Waterfront. It was named after Queen Victoria and her second son, Alfred, who laid some of the first stones for the waterfront. The ride took about 15 minutes from the ship.

The shuttle dropped us off in front of a large shopping center, which looked like other large shopping centers around the world. It was interesting watching the people going in and out. John commented on how stylishly everyone was dressed. The place was spotlessly clean and very modern. When we asked a worker carrying a large plastic bag of toilet paper rolls where we could find the Post Office, she insisted on taking us there herself. All of the people we came in contact with were very friendly and helpful.

Using an ATM machine, we drew out some of the local currency, which is the South African rand (about R16 to the dollar). We went into one of the grocery stores looking for shaving cream. It is always interesting to see what’s in grocery stores around the world.

The Victoria and Alfred Waterfront is a great place filled with restaurants, bars, and shops. It features a large Ferris wheel and is a favorite gathering place for tourists and local residents. It is also close to a number of museums, including the Rugby Museum and the Golf Museum, and the Two Oceans Aquarium. It is definitely a place to visit while in Cape Town.

Waterfront With Statues of Nelson Mandela, Desmond Tutu, and Others

Back at the ship, we spent part of the evening sitting on the deck looking out at the lights of Cape Town—a beautiful sight.